Swell Guide to Panama
Swell Guide to Panama. Sand at Playa Blanca. Photo by Lesley Robb.
In about a few week’s time, we’re heading back to Panama for a break from Canadian winter. We visited Panama for 2 weeks in 2018 and FELL IN LOVE. I’ve been asked twice recently if I have a swell guide to Panama, so here it is. If you’re looking for a Central American destination that’s off the beaten path, has equal parts city life and breathtaking biodiversity offers endless beaches on the Pacific AND Caribbean coasts; this guide is for you. I’ll keep it brief, but informative. Truthfully, I still have so much more to explore. All in good time. There’s a reason you’ll find ex-pats here. It’s good living. So, come on a journey with me to one of my favourite hot destinations that’s a quick trip from North America.
These are my top reasons for choosing Panama and it’s not the Panama Canal (although, that’s fascinating too). Often overshadowed by neighbouring Costa Rica, Panama is an incredibly beautiful and diverse country that’s simply underrated in my humble opinion. Not without its own challenges, though. It struggles to boost tourism while facing environmental challenges (much like the rest of the world) and respectfully including indigenous communities and conservation areas as part of its plan for growth.
Swell Guide to Panama. Playa Blanca. Photo by Lesley Robb.
Beaches
I bet you don’t immediately think of Panama when you want to get away to a beach destination, but think again. Panama is blessed with beaches on both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts and hot (and muggy) weather. There are peaks you can hike to the top of and see both sparkling bodies of water at once. Or, you can surf the Pacific side and go full beach bum on the Caribbean side — all in one day. On the Pacific Coast, you’ll find white sand and volcanic sand beaches (sometimes mixed). On the Caribbean Coast, you’ll find the blinding turquoise beaches that you’d find in Cuba or Jamaica. Dotted with tiny islands where no one else is in sight.
Playa Bonita - A beach destination right outside of Panama City provides the best of both worlds. Panama City is also a launching point for pristine Las Perlas islands in the bay. Ferries depart for the sandy beaches of Isla Contadora daily where you can explore island life and maybe even see whales and other marine life.
San Blas - On the Caribbean coast are the San Blas Islands. A trek to get to and largely protected (as they should be) by Guna Yala indigenous communities, these sparkling beaches and remote islands are off the grid — cane-and-thatch hut and hammock style. If you choose to visit San Blas or any other areas in Panama that are protected by indigenous people (Embera and Guna Yala Villages), please do so with utmost respect and choose operators that do the same. Making sure your dollars have the most impact in the way of ethical tourism.
Playa Santa Clara + Playa Blanca - Playa Santa Clara and Playa Blanca, on the Pacific coast is dotted with more traditional resorts and beach bum towns. If this is your style, you won’t be disappointed with this coastal area on the Pacific.
Bocas del Toros - Ever wanted to stay in a hut on stilts over the Caribbean? You’ll find it here at this popular spot. Let your hair down with mellow places to hangout and enjoy Caribbean food and vibes.
Boca Chica + Santa Catalina - The beaches in Boca Chica are easily accessible via David and are wonderful spots water activities including scuba diving, surfing and fishing, but also a gateway to Isla Palenque in the Gulf of Chiriquí (and many other islands) and Parque Nacional Coiba. An extremely biodiverse area, you might see one of the area’s many species of dolphins, whales and reptiles.
Swell Guide to Panama. The American Trade Hotel dining room. Photo by Lesley Robb.
Swell Guide to Panama. Tile at The American Trade Hotel. Photo by Lesley Robb.
Swell Guide to Panama. Cafe Unido at The American Trade Hotel. Photo by Lesley Robb.
City Life
Panama City is as cosmopolitan as it gets. The largest city in Central America, it’s a bit like Miami but with a flavour all its own. It boasts skyscrapers and all the things you would find in a metropolitan city (shopping, casinos, club and restaurants), but we’re all for the gems like the colonial district of Casco Viejo and the city’s own rainforest parks at Parque Nacional Soberanía, Parque Natural Metropolitano, and Parque Nacional Chagres where you can see sloths and monkeys.
A gateway to the Americas with the Panama Canal, this city is also a gateway to the country’s own treasures of rainforests, cloud forests, beaches, historical sites and abundant culture. Everything is within reach from this capital city. If you’re short on time, quick flights will take you west to David, Boquete and Bocas del Toros.
To get a full view of this expansive city head to the 6 km-long Amador Causeway. Look across the canal on one side and check out the cityscape on the other. There are plenty of restaurants and shops to stop at as you bike the causeway and rentals are easily available.
My favourite part of Panama City was Casco Viejo. In 1998, the city’s cultural and historical significance was recognized by UNESCO and it was declared a World Heritage Site. It’s having a resurgence as Spanish style buildings are being restored to their original beauty to welcome guests with restaurants, shops and hotels. You can easily spend a day or more simply wandering the streets of this beautiful part of the city.
American Trade Hotel + Cafe Unido - The American Trade Hotel in Casco Viejo is the top choice if you’re looking for a boutique hotel in the neighbourhood’s core. Complete with dining room, jazz club and rooftop pool. The building has been beautifully restored with Cafe Unido on site. Even if you can’t stay the night, it’s worth booking a reservation at the dining room, enjoying a cocktail in the lobby or having an espresso at the cafe.
BioMueso - Located on the causeway, this colourful museum celebrates Panama’s human history and biodiversity. Designed by Frank Gehry in2014, it’s the city’s best museum and can be seen from afar throughout the city.
Panama Viejo - Founded on August 15, 1519, by Spanish conquistador Pedro Arias de Ávila, the city of Panamá was the first European settlement along the Pacific. In 1671, Captain Henry Morgan (yes, that Henry Morgan) sacked the city and it was relocated to the present-day Casco Viejo. Today, it has many colonial ruins to explore. Step back in history with a visit to the edge of the metropolis.
Parque Natural Metropolitano - While still in the city, this park offers a tranquil spot to appreciate Panama’s diverse flora, fauna and animals. If you want to truly experience Panama’s biodiversity head out to Parque Nacional Soberanía or Parque Nacional Chagres or other national parks.
Amador Causeway - As mentioned above, rent a bike and ride along the causeway that reaches out into the sea. Complete with restaurants, shops, splash pads, abundant views and the BioMuseo.
Cintra Costera - The long trail system along the city’s waterfront is also great for walking, cycling and taking in city views.
Ice Cream at Grancelement - Beat the heat with a treat at Grancelement. A french inspired ice cream shop featuring local tropical flavours.
Artisan Markets - Panama’s indigenous artisans make lovely baskets, bowls, masks and textiles called molas (by Guna Yala artisans) to take home. Markets selling their wares can be found near Panama Viejo at Mercado Nacional de Artesanías and the market at Avenida 5 de Mayo near Casco Viejo and other parts of the city including Balboa.
Swell Guide to Panama. Waterfall in El Valle de Anton area. Photo by Lesley Robb.
Swell Guide to Panama. Relaxing in a Hammock at Gamboa. Photo by Lesley Robb.
Biodiversity
Similar to other Central American countries, Panama is a paradise for biodiversity and nature lovers. Despite its small size, Panama is one of the most biodiverse places in the world. More plant species are found in Panama than in all of Canada and Europe combined. About one third of the country is protected for conservation with 40 national parks. It’s unique location between the Americas makes it a choice destination for birdwatchers and other wildlife unique to Panama and Central America.
We traveled with kids in 2018 and we all marvelled at the butterflies, frogs, sloths, monkeys, marine life, insects, flowers and plants. Seeing working ants march through the rainforest was a simple wonder. Waking up to the the screams of howler monkeys in Gamboa was also an experience.
Visit the country’s many conservation areas where you can see species up close and admire the work of scientists and conservationists. In 1910, The Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute was founded in Panama to lead one of the world’s first environmental impact studies with the creation of the Panama Canal. Over a century later with four outposts across the country, the institute is a standard-setting global platform for research on topical forests and marine systems. With 40 staff scientists, the team welcomes over 1400 visiting scientists each year.
Swell Guide to Panama. Local fruit and vegetable stand. Photo by Felix Tchverkin.
Swell Guide to Panama. El Valle de Anton. Photo by Lesley Robb.
Just Chill
The chill vibe in Panama is refreshing. That said, if you’re looking for thrills and adventure Panama has plenty of that too. Head into the low-key towns of the mountains and cloud forests. El Valle and Boquete are wonderful choices. You’ll find casas with pools for relaxing and lounging, hiking trails, waterfalls, volcanos and coffee plantations. If a retreat is your thing, you can also find them here. Easy and safe to travel by car, Panama welcomes you with open arms to explore the country independently.
Panamanian people are incredibly warm and helpful. Just brush up on your Spanish to make things easier for everyone and never hesitate to stop at a local fruit stand or local open-air market. The fruit in Panama is delicious and such a treat to eat fresh. Melons, pineapples, bananas, passion fruit — it’s all incredibly delicious. So is all the local fare. Dig in with the locals!
El Valle - A short drive from Panama is the town of El Valle (officially known as El Valle de Antón) Nestled in the crater of a huge extinct volcano, this lush city in the cloud forest was one of my favourite places to explore. With many choices for relaxing casas to spread out, trails and waterfalls to traverse. El Valle is a nice break from the beating sun of the beaches with slightly cooler and moodier weather. Nearby forests offer an extensive system of trails, and the valleys of El Valle are home to an impressive set of waterfalls and natural pools.
Boquete - Boquete is known for its cool, fresh climate and pristine natural surroundings. Flowers, coffee, vegetables and citrus fruits flourish in its rich soil, and the friendliness of the locals seems to rub off on everyone who passes through. Boquete is one of the country’s top destinations for outdoor-lovers. It's a hub for hiking, climbing, rafting, visiting coffee farms, soaking in hot springs, studying Spanish or canopy touring. And, of course, there’s nothing quite like a cup of locally grown coffee.
Have you been to Panama? I’d love to hear your stories and recommendations for our next trip! Comment below with your tips or get in touch. Thanks for reading!
Swell Guide to Panama. Swell kids in Casco Viejo, Panama City. Photo by Lesley Robb.